It's a gloomy October day in 2023, and I am walking along hiking trail number 10 - spectacularly unspectacular: no colour, no dimension, no fun. When I get back home, I write a little "x" on the page of the Franz-Karl-Effenberg-Wanderweg , which means "Did not enjoy it". More than a year later, I take my daughter there. After an hour on the public transport, we finally reach the starting point. “Mum,” she says, “I don't feel well.” We sit on a bench next to the graveyard for